CAA Leisureways Magazine October 1992
It is always a joy to visit India. Few countries can match its incredible variety of landscapes across its 23 states — a land of contrasts, vibrant people, many religions, festivals and the richest colors on earth.
One can travel from the high altitude of the north and the scenic splendor of the Himalayas, west to the desert of Rajasthan, south to the hot and lush Malabar coast and east to Calcutta and the Bay of Bengal, a breathless kaleidoscope of color and magic. This was not my first trip to India so I was returning to the great sub-continent with much anticipation, This time I was to visit the exotic Kingdom of Rajasthan in India’s north west and explore the ancient wonders of the state via the luxurious train known as the Palace on Wheels. One of the best ways to travel around Rajasthan, the Palace on Wheels runs from August until the end of April.
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| Palace on Wheels |
The four cozy saloons in each carriage have comfortable beds and are serviced by a cabin boy who is always ready to help you. Breakfast is served every morning in a small lounge at the end of each saloon and the train has two beautifully outfitted dining cars decorated in the traditional Indian style, After an exhausting day in the intense heat of Rajasthan, you can hop back on the train and enjoy a cool shower before dinner.
The Palace on Wheels travels a somewhat circular route around Rajasthan, taking in the glorious pink city of Jaipur, the beautiful lake city of Udaipur, the desert city of Jaisalmer, the fortified city of Jodhpur, crossing back east into the state of Uttar Pradesh and visiting the famed Agra fort and the Taj Mahal.
Boarding the train at New Delhi’s Delhi Cantt station, one is greeted by the two great coupled steam engines named Desert Queen, lovingly kept in spotless condition by their proud crews. Like some bygone snorting giants, the two engines slowly pull the long line of carriages out of the station and head west, crossing into the state of Rajasthan. Before reaching the first destination, the steam engines are switched to more practical diesels and the reverse occurs at the end of the trip.
The history of Rajasthan can be traced back beyond 2,500 BC, when Bhil and Mina tribes inhabited the area. Around 1,400 BC the Aryans arrived, sweeping across the land in their elaborate chariots, dispersing the local tribes east and south. And here the Aryans remained.
Later, Rajasthan, then known as Rajputana, was fragmented into competing kingdoms and became known as The Land of the Kings. The Rajputs, who ruled and controlled this part of India for the next 1,000 years, were renowned for chivalry and honor, akin to that of the medieval European knights.
The legends of the ruling Rajputs as warriors were many. One tells the story of fierce fighting against their invaders. If they were being overrun and faced with conquer, the women and children would commit suicide by marching into a funeral pyre in a ritual known as “Jauhar”. The men, meanwhile, wore their saffron robes of rejoicing, traditionally worn only at weddings, and rode into battle and certain death. The Rajputs were never a united force and therefore no real opposition to the more powerful Moghuls.
At the time of independence from Britain, the state of Rajasthan was created from 23 princely states. Today it covers an area of 342,314 square kilometres and has a population of 29 million (India’s total population is 850 million). The extreme north-eastern part of the state is covered by the hot and very dry Thar Desert, stretching across the border into Pakistan. Other parts of the state offer a varied terrain, with hills, deep valleys and interesting rock formations.
The main religion in Rajasthan is Hindu, and the language is referred to as Rajasthani. English is widely spoken as it is throughout most of India, making travel relatively easy for North Americans. Ten years ago few travellers would have heard of or travelled to Rajasthan. Now, through the Rajasthan Tourist Development Corporation and The Government of India Tourist Office, travellers can enjoy the magnificent sites of this exotic state. Few would be disappointed in its many superb palaces and incredible forts, strung out across the barren landscape in a dazzling display of architectural wonder.
India is probably most renowned for its vibrant color and there’s no better place to see its variety than in the costumes of the Rajasthani people. Men wear large brightly colored turbans, some a single pastel color, others a multitude of colors. The turbans are complemented by the fine features of the men with their swooping moustaches, wonderfully groomed to their pointed tips. The women wear bright colored skirts in dazzling hues and adorn themselves with large pieces of chunky jewelry in their ears, around their necks and arms.
Music and dance also play an important part in Rajasthan folklore and culture. The Rajasthani warrior music is mystifying, like a mix of Eastern European and traditional Indian music, played on the most simple of instruments.
The train’s first stop is Rajasthan’s capital city of Jaipur, more commonly known as the Pink City because of the distinctive glow of its pink sandstone buildings. The most famous of these is the Hawa Mahal built in 1799, also known as the Palace of the Winds. Maharajah Sawaj Pratap Singh built the palace for the ladies of the royal household from which they could watch the everyday life and processions of the day in relative comfort. The placement of the many windows provided a cool breeze in the hot desert climate — hence its name.
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| Palace of the Winds, Jaipur |
One of the highlights of the trip was an elephant ride up the steep cobbled street leading to Jaipur’s Amer fort. Some of the elephants’ heads were elaborately painted and decorated in traditional Rajasthani styles and colors, recalling the regalia of the old royal courts. I sat swaying atop a 40-year-old lumbering giant, amazed at its power and grace. As the elephant entered the imposing Singh Pol (Lion Gate), I wondered at the sprawling complex of courtyards, halls, palaces and strange mix of architecture. Higher still were the Maharajah’s apartments featuring rooms with exquisite paintings and inlaid wall mirrors.
One of the most fascinating places to visit in Jaipur is the Jantar Manta Observatory which was started in 1728 by Maharajah Jai Singh II. Jai Singh had a passion for astronomy and eventually built five observatories in India, The one in Jaipur is a bizarre mix of strange shapes, each designed for a specific purpose, such as to measure the position of the stars, or to calculate eclipses.
The longest part of the train journey is from the lake city of Udaipur to the remote wonder of Jaisalmer — about 21 hours. But boredom is not a problem since the landscape is ever changing as the train speeds north-west into the great Thar Desert. This is one of the driest parts of India and offers the traveller a look at some strange cactus plants and small desert towns along the way, appearing like mirages in the swirling sands of the desert.
Leaving the train at Jaisalmer station is like walking into a blast furnace room at a steel mill. It is immediately obvious that you have arrived at some very remote corner of the world. Passengers were urged to take along lots of bottled mineral water for the day’s adventure, available for a modest price from the cabin boy.
Ancient Jaisalmer looms out of the desert sands like a scene from the Arabian Nights. The imposing fort, built on high ground overlooking the old part of town, was built in 1156 by Rawal Jaisal. Jaisalmer, one of the most exotic cities in India, was once home to wealthy merchants who built the beautiful mansions called Havells. Several of these elaborately styled houses are still standing in very good condition. The merchants became wealthy as Jaisalmer was an important stop on the camel routes between India and central Asia.
It was here that I took a camel ride in the Thar desert but it was not as comfortable as my earlier elephant ride. My companion very bravely sat forward as I tried to hold on in the rear, on part of the camel’s hump. I declined the. owner’s offer of speeding up to a trot as I had no wish to add to my discomfort. Trying to hold on to my sun hat and water bottle, as well as the camel, certainly didn’t help my progress. It rapidly became clear to me that one must practice the art of camel riding before it becomes a pleasant mode of transportation. I now have the utmost respect for professional camel riders.
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| Spice seller in Jaipur |
TRIP TIPS: I flew Air India from Toronto to New Delhi, via London. For information on India, contact the Government of India Tourist Office, 60 Bloor Street West, Toronto, M4W 3B8, telephone 962-3787.
The Palace on Wheels is a special tourist train, recently renovated, comprising 13 air conditioned meter gauge saloons, two dining cars and a lounge car, hauled by a steam engine.
This 20th century holiday palace that wheels visitors to Rajasthan was used in the 19th century by Indian maharajahs, British viceroys and governor generals. Although completely modernized for travel comfort, the original style and decor has been maintained.
This train departs every Wednesday evening from Delhi and the itinerary covers Jaipur, Chittaurgarh, Udaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Bharatpur, Fatehpur, Sikri and Agra, returning to Delhi the next Wednesday morning. The Palace on Wheels operates nine months a year, from August through April.
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| Fatehpur-Sikri, Uttar Pradesh |
Prices do not include liquor, mineral water, laundry and other items of a personal nature.
Each saloon contains four air conditioned cabins with two twin beds and one upper berth, two modern toilets with hot and cold water and showers, a kitchenette and lounge equipped with a television, VCR and window room for picture taking. Two saloon attendants are always present for instant service.
Two dining cars offer Continental and Indian cuisine in air conditioned comfort and there is a separate lounge/observation car with bar and library.
Indian Airlines offers special packages for trips within India. A Discover India package allows 21 days unlimited economy class air travel anywhere in India. You may only touch down in any place once except for transfers/connections. India Wonderfares offers seven days unlimited economy class travel within North, South, East or West India.
Call your CAA Travel Agent for information and costs on air transportation.
Find more information at the Luxury Train Club.
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